By Joan Lang
Pundits say that the two most recession-proof businesses are booze and funerals, and the latest data does seem to bear out the former. Consider getting your fair share by taking advantage of some of the beverage trends that have been booming away in the past 18-24 months.
Handcrafted cocktails, craft beer and interesting wines by the glass are at the heart of the premium-imbibing movement that was sweeping the foodservice scene before the Great Recession descended, and they continue more-or-less unabated even as the economy returns to iffy-ness today. The runaway success of the TV show “Mad Men,” with its high-profile drinking, has helped to revive the whole cocktail party culture vibe.
Small wonder. These tony quaffs are extremely profitable, and have turned the bartender into a rock star—not to mention a key position in any operation that has a liquor license. They’ve also energized the concept of bar menus, small plates, ‘60s-style snacks like deviled eggs, and anything small and salty and/or fried that can encourage patrons to order another round.
Here, in no particular order, are some of the newest wrinkles on the liquid side:
Orange and Black are the New Black. As in orange wine and black IPAs. Orange wine is produced from white grapes that macerate and even ferment on the grape skins, adding a coppery tinge and tannic body, as well as creating a uniquely marriageable wine with the characteristics of both white and red. This centuries-old winemaking technique is being revived by winemakers in Italy and the U.S. As for the burgeoning black IPA category, the fusion of two popular styles–India Pale Ales and porters and stouts–has created an intriguing beverage that appeals to both beer geeks and craft aficionados.
Signatures of the House. If your bar staff hasn’t created a selection of one-of-a-kind cocktails specifically for your venue, get a new one. Bespoke drinks that echo the menu concept (a chili-infused rum drink for Caribbean-themed food, for instance) will help set your business apart.
Make a Session of It. The proliferation of high-alcohol and other extreme beer has created a need for interesting “session” beers, brews that can be drunk in multiples over the course of a single session or meal occasion.
Bid Adieu to Wine Bottles. Large format wine containers like kegs, boxes, and even the unfortunately named bladders are being marketed by an increasingly serious group of producers and importers, making wine service more affordable, convenient and versatile. While wine on tap is the biggest trend, the whole field is evolving rapidly. This is in addition, of course, to the growing variety of wine serviceware, from tasting-size glasses to classy quartinos and classy carafes.
Yes, Virginal. Not everyone drinks—not all the time, anyway. Whether for reasons of health, sobriety, age, personal or cultural beliefs or just being the designated driver for the night, there are teetotalers who might appreciate a good “virgin” option that doesn’t call attention to the fact that they’re not imbibing. Artisanal sodas, distinctive tea-based beverages, and other complex nonalcoholic signatures meant to be enjoyed with or before food are a welcome gesture toward nondrinkers.
The Bloody is Back. In all the rush to make cocktails like Aviations, Manhattans and Fizzes, the classic Bloody Mary got a little lost in the shuffle, but now it’s coming back with such iterations as do-it-yourself bars and even special menu sections featuring the ever-beloved brunch drink in multiple versions.
Bartenders in the Walk-In! Chefs take their inspiration every day from what’s fresh and best in the larder and now so too do bartenders. Fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs are all fair game for cocktail creativity, inspiring flavors, juicy, infusions and garnishes. Raiding the walk-in also allows for seasonal cocktails, such as spring rhubarb and fall quince. Cucumber mint cocktail with rosemary syrup anyone
Beer Taps on Rotation. These days it’s not good enough to offer just a few different draft beers for customers to choose between. With so many kinds of beer available by the keg, it’s much more common to see a dozen or more tap beers at the very least. Very one new gastropub/tavern concepts, such as James Wood Foundry in New York City, offers 14 taps from the U.S., U.K., and Belgium, in additional to bottles
Small-Batch American Spirits. Small artisanal distilleries are opening all over the country, from Cold Rover vodka in Freeport, ME, to Old Potrero Strait Rye Whiskey in San Francisco. Used to make cocktails as well as for sipping, these artisan made spirits join other handmade local products, like honey, cheese, cured meats, and condiments.
Must-Haves: Benedictine, elderflower liqueur, absinthe, Prosecco and Luxardo. Whether centuries old, born-again or new, certain specialty alcoholic beverages have become de rigueur on trendy bars. By the time you read this, these five products may have passed into last week’s news, but right now, the 19th century herbal liqueur made by the Benedictine monks and the refreshing Italian sparkling wine known as Prosecco are on everyone’s cocktail list du jour.
The Ice Age. One ice cube does not fits all, when spherical shapes melt slowly to keep from diluting single-malt Scotch on the rocks or spears chill shaken mixtures like a Tom Collins. Some cubes even have items like rosemary leaves frozen into them for flavor.
Low, Lower and Lowest. It’s not all about high-proof spirits. Unfortified beverages like wine, sparkling wine and beer have become mixers in signature drinks such as the French 75 (gin, Champagne, lemon juice, and sugar) and the chelada (Mexican beer with tomato juice or Clamato, lime juice, and assorted sauces, spices, and peppers). There are also aperitif-, digestive-, and fortified-beverage based specialties such as the sherry flip, Pimm’s Cup, and the Americano (a blend of Campari, dry vermouth and club soda) to provide a lighter buzz.